One of the biggest festivals in Europe returns after a three-year absence to celebrate the best of Welsh culture – a natural showcase for music, dance, visual arts, literature, original performances and much more.Huw Stephens heads to the historic market town of Tregaron to bring all the highlights and stories from the National Eisteddfod of Wales and to discover how this most ancient of festivals is constantly evolving to remain a relevant cultural force.There has been much excitement as the much-anticipated week-long festival returns to Ceredigion. It kicks off with some highly ambitious and visual opening shows to celebrate the fact that the Tregaron Eisteddfod has finally arrived!Huw catches up with folk music legend Dafydd Iwan, whose Yma o Hyd anthem has become synonymous with the Welsh football team's success. He also brings a flavour of the diverse selection of performances, from brass bands to classy pop performances to classical music.Huw also visits the Lle Celf, the largest temporary modern art exhibition in Europe, where he enjoys the work of the gold medal winners in fine art, contemporary art, craft and design as well as architecture.