Slip back in time on a streetcar modeled on a steam engine and travel the tiny city of Matsuyama in Ehime Pref. Our reporter soaks in the hot springs of Dogo Onsen at a castle-like bathhouse and views hotel rooms that are themselves art installations. She also learns about Iyo-kasuri weaving and visits a bar to write some haiku. And, our correspondent suggests sightseeing spots, public baths, and eateries in Kyoto for early bird travelers to check out in the morning, before the crowds descend.