Join Michael Portillo as he takes us on a Long Weekend in Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic and city of a hundred spires.

Michael first visited Prague 40 years ago when Czechoslovakia, as it was known then, was behind the Iron Curtain. But now it's totally transformed into a vibrant must-see city with amazing castles, wonderful gas-lit streets and beautiful eateries and places to see.

But beneath the buzzing surface, the city's darker past also makes it a must-visit for a long weekend. From the discovery of a secret nuclear bunker under his hotel and rebirth of Czech cold war cuisine, to daredevil circus acrobatics and hidden Soviet art, Michael takes us through a city where he finds so much has changed since he first went there.

Michael begins by crossing the stunning 13th century Charles Bridge heading to the British Embassy which he last visited in the 1980s when the city was under constant Soviet surveillance and meetings took place in the Embassy's garden to avoid being spied upon.

At Prague Castle, the world's largest ancient castle, Michael explores the striking St Vitus cathedral before stopping for lunch at the city's oldest deli to make a ‘Chlebicky' – a messy but delicious open sandwich, smothered in cured meats, and pickled vegetables.

Michael's hotel reveals an entertaining relic from darker days – a nuclear bunker complete with spying control room. He also takes a deep breath learning how to blow 600-degree hot glass as tries to create some of the city's world famous glassware before taking the culinary plunge by sampling local delicacies – raw steak tartar and bone marrow – as old school cuisine makes a comeback.

He then gains access to the workings behind the amazing 15th-century astronomical street clock – which anyone can get for a tenner – and then it's off to the historic Jewish Quarter where Michael finds surprise after surprise, including lighting the city's gas street lamps with the world's tallest street lamp lighter – at over 2.5m.

Michael also manages to squeeze in a night in a one room hotel dubbed Europe's ugliest building, visits the country's oldest monastery where the monks' beer has been brewed for 1000 years, and laps up the thrills and spills behind the scenes of a dramatic night at the world-famous Prague circus.